Taken again by the charm of Tomaltepec

Regular visitors to this site know that the ride through the countryside to the two presas in the valley above Santo Domingo Tomaltepec is a favorite Sunday outing for our informal group of extranjeros and local cyclists. The sky was grey and drizzle was falling when the gang assembled in front of the church of Santo Domingo in the center of Oaxaca at 9 o’clock the morning of 16 October 2022. Ten riders turned out for the day’s ride – nine guys and one gal. The drizzle stopped and the sky gradually cleared for what turned out to be an excellent day to be in the saddle – also in the reservoir, where three of the gang took a swim. The ride out and back was delightful, if uneventful, covering a distance of 39 kilometers (24.4 miles). The elevation gain – all of it on the outbound leg – amounted to 221 meters (725 feet). That ensured that the ride back to town was all sweet downhill. There were lots of fall wildflowers blooming merrily all along the way.

Cuishe Trail

The Cuishe trail is the newest venue offered in the “Hoofing It In Oaxaca” `hiking program sponsored by the Oaxaca Lending Library (see details at www.HoofingItInOaxaca.com). Larry decided to check it out one weekday in late August. It made for a very satisfying ride in the rolling hills on the flanks of the mountains which form the western boundary of the Valles Centrales. Moving at a leisurely pace and exploring some side roads, the round trip took four hours to complete. Stronger riders can make it out and back in about three hours. This was a shuttle ride, with bike and rider driving almost to La Lobera to get onto the trail, which is mostly a dirt road. Though relatively short in terms of distance, the ride is rated moderate to difficult because some of the gradients run to 11% and 12% – though most of the climbs are in the 5% to 6% range. This could be an out & back ride from central Oaxaca, but that would add at least another 48 kilometers (30 miles) to the distance – a pretty formidable day’s excursion. A new “destination” restaurant has set up shop in the countryside near La Raya. Owned and operated by the chef at Casa Oaxaca, “El Portozuelo” is an interesting mix of rustic setting and upscale cuisine. The restaurant is open only on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays.

Pedaling to the Presas of Tomaltepec

Oaxaca received 2.5 inches of rain Friday into Saturday, with another quarter inch Saturday night into Sunday. The precipitation was most welcome, as rainfall has been sparse this summer. But while farmers rejoice at thundershowers, cyclists less so. However, skies were clearing on Sunday morning as a group of intrepid bikers set out at 9 am for a ride to the presas of Santo Domingo Tomaltepec. Along the way we spotted a large contingent of roadies in a race going to Huayapm. Outbound, our route took us through Tlalixtac and Santo Domingo. Stopping for a rest and some photos at the second of the presas, we found an enterprising couple had set up a small comedor there and were serving memelas and offering cold drinks. There were a good number of other cyclists there, along with a handful of fisherman. From the reservoir the group continued up the valley, crossing the steam which feeds the lakes a half-dozen times going each way. Again we were passed by a significant number of bikers heading back to the city, some in racing attire. One group of about a dozen were youngsters of around fourteen years old who came flying down the trail, obviously having a great time. On the way home our group split, with some retracing our route through Tlalixtac and the others passing through Tule and then taking the bike path to Oaxaca.

Looping Through Life On A Bike

Sunday, 31 July 2022 was (another) gorgeous day for a mountain bike ride. Our route was one of our favorites – a long loop from Oaxaca to San Felipe Tejalápam to San Andrés Ixtlahuaca and back to Oaxaca. We zig-zagged a bit and wound up crossing the same stream multiple times just past Tejalápam. There are at least three roads that snake over the ridge of hills separating San Felipe and San Andrés. We chose the longest because it was the least steep of the lot, though still a formidable climb. The Ixtalhuaca valley was especially beautiful, with the farm fields and hillsides a vibrant green. All told, we pedaled 50.9 kilometers (31.6 miles), with an elevation gain and loss of 493 meters (1618 feet). There were no mechanical problems or flat tires to mar the ride, which ran five hours from 9 am to 2 pm. The weather forecast was for rain in the Valles Centrales sometime after two o’clock, and we saw dark storm clouds developing along the Sierra Norte. Happily, we stayed dry – except for those stream crossings. Sorry, no one in the group took any photos along the way to share with you.

Dancing With The Danzante

The last two weeks of July are a festive time in Oaxaca because that is when the Guelaguetza takes place. The Guelaguetza is the largest festival of indigenous dance and music in Mexico and attracts spectators from far and near. Today’s ride (Sunday, 24 July 2022) was, appropriately, an excursion to the giant statue of the Danzante of Zimatlan. Nearby on the same hill is a small outdoor theater where a troup of local dancers were rehearsing for a show to take place later. Our bikers enjoyed watching the performance after climbing to the top of the hill for a closer look at the Danzante and to admire the view out over the Zimatlan valley. A total of eight riders – four gringos and four natives – took part in the excursion, which covered a round-trip distance of 56 kilometers (35 miles) with an elevation gain and loss of about 152.5 meters (500 feet). As happens frequently on rides that pass by Zaachila, the group opted to stop at the local mercado gastronomic for either a late breakfast or early lunch. From that point it was an uneventful ride back to Oaxaca, except for a light rain that dampened our jerseys but not our spirits. All in all, it was a good day’s ride!