Category: Photos

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La Cumbre

The World Wildlife Fund sponsors a forest preserve in the Sierra Norte mountains immediately north of Oaxaca. The preserve is sizeable, extending 15 miles (24 km) from La Cumbre to Santa Catarina Ixtepejic. The area is criss-crossed with old logging trails that are now closed to vehicular traffic, but are terrific for hiking and mountain biking. There is a fee of 50 pesos to gain entrance to the reserve, and guides are available, if desired.

This particular out-and-back ride goes a total of 19.8 miles (32 km) from the entrance station on highway 175 on one of the many interconnecting trails in the woods. The elevation gain going in and coming back out comes to 3742 feet (1140 meters). And don’t forget that you are operating at an altitude of about 9000 feet (274 meters), to begin with. This ride is rated “Moderate.”

There are no grand vistas or archeological ruins to be had here. Just the peace and tranquility to be found in the deep forest. Be aware that the temperature in the cloud forest is usually about 20 degrees Fahrenheit (6.6 degrees Celsius) lower than conditions in Oaxaca. Morning fog and drizzle is commonplace, even in the dry season, so dress accordingly.

San Pablo Cuatro Venados

If you are in the mood for a killer climb, then this ride from San Felipe (or Oaxaca) to San Pablo Cuatro Venados will surely put a smile on your face. It will also certainly sear your lungs and burn your legs!

Cuatro Venados sits high atop the ridge of the mountains that form the western rim of the Etla Valley, one of three of the Valles Centrales around Oaxaca city. There are stunning views from the sinuous dirt road that winds up from the valley floor. There is also an impressive waterfall in the ecotourism park a couple of miles beyond the village (where this particular ride ends).

This out and back ride clocks in at 48.5 miles (78 km) with an elevation gain of 6326 feet (1928 meters) for the round trip. Yikes! Better eat your Wheaties before you set out! The ride is rated “Difficult” because of the length, altitude and steepness of the grade. There are no technical sections to navigate, however, as the entire route is on paved or unpaved roads.

For another variation on a ride focusing on this area, see “Cuatro Venados Loop” ride on this page, above.

Huayapam Ride

Huayapam is a small residential community nestled against the mountains a short distance from Oaxaca city. It is home to a number of resident expatriots from the U.S. and Canada. There are footpaths linking it with San Luis Beltran and San Felipe del Agua, two other villages that sit on the flanks of the mountains to the north of Oaxaca. These paths and other trails that lead into the hills are popular with the local mountain bikers.

The ride illustrated here covers 11.7 miles (18.8 km) and has an elevation gain of 2036 feet (620 meters). A good portion of that climb is connected with riding what we call the “road to nowhere,” an old logging road that runs up one side of a valley and down the other. You can avoid the climb and shorten the ride by skipping this part of the ride, if you like. There is also one creek crossing that requires dismounting to enter and exit an arroyo where it is a challenge to carry your bike down and up the steep side slopes. Otherwise, the outing is a blast!

Monte Alban

Monte Alban is the crown jewel among the archeological treasures of Oaxaca. Situated on a hilltop 1312 feet above the valley floor, the massive plaza with the imposing platforms that once held numerous temples and palaces is an impressive sight. Since it is quite close to the city of Oaxaca, it is easily accessible by bicycle.

The route traced on the map below runs for 11.3 miles (18.2 km) and shows an elevation gain of 1463 feet (446 meters). It is accomplished on paved roads all the way, so be cautious of vehicular traffic. The ride is rated “Moderate” because of the steepness of the climb. If you are a traveler from a low elevation, you will feel the strain of climbing at this altitude.

Loop Ride: San Felipe / San Bartolo Coyotepec / Zaachila / Cuilapam / San Felipe

This is a great loop ride through open countryside with very little elevation change. San Bartolo Coyotepec is the village famous for shiny black, intricately incised pottery. There is a very good public gallery there featuring work from regional artisans who are expert craftsman working in ceramic, wood, metal, paint and other mediums. Zaachila is a very ancient, yet thriving community. The Zapotec ruins in the center of town are worth a visit, as is the weekly market on Thursdays. Cuilapam is historically one of the Mixtec villages on the outskirts of Oaxaca city, and features ruins of a never-finished Dominican convent.

The route takes you on city streets through Oaxaca, then along a principal highway to San Bartolo, where you jog to the west on a little-used but well-paved road to Zaachila. From Zaachila you can either follow the track shown below, which meanders on footpaths and backcountry dirt roads, or opt for the (shorter)  paved highway to Cuilapam. The final segment from Cuilapam back to Oaxaca is along a busy stretch of road. It is best to do this ride on a Sunday, when traffic is just a fraction of what it is other days of the week.

I neglected to turn on my GPS unit until I was in downtown Oaxaca, so the elevation plot below is missing the initial 375 foot descent from San Felipe into town — not a problem if you begin and end your ride at the Zocalo.

The entire loop covers about 32 miles (51.5 km), and there is an elevation loss & gain of about 1425 feet (434 meters) along the way. If you elect to do this ride, but use the Zocalo instead of San Felipe as the start / end point, the distance will be 7 miles shorter and the elevation gain / loss will be 750 feet less.