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San Felipe del Agua to Ocotlan

If you want to stretch your legs, put in a good number of miles and enjoy some fine arts and crafts along the way, this ride from Oaxaca to Ocotlan may suit your fancy. You will rack up nearly 64 miles in the saddle if you follow this route, which takes the long (i.e. scenic) way to Octolan via back roads in the Tlacolula Valley to avoid traffic on the main highway going south out of town. Though the mileage is significant, most of the route is relatively flat — honest! However you get to Ocotlan, you will have to cross the ridge that separates the Tlocolula Valley from the Zimatlan Valley (on some maps called the Grande Valley) to the south.

In Ocotlan you will want to stop at the Rodolpho Morales museum and visit the workshop of the famous Aquilar sisters. Either going to or coming from Ocotlan, you will pass right by the village of San Tomas Jalieza, where women use back-strap looms to weave apparel items, and San Martín Tilcajete, world-famous for the fanciful wood carvings called “alebrijes.” With stops to look at art and to have lunch, this will be an all-day excursion. Take your time and enjoy it! Your legs and rear end will appreciate getting some time off the bike.

Mitla

The ride east from Oaxaca city to Mitla through the Tlacolula valley is an archeologist’s dream. The Zapotec palace ruins in Mitla are second in importance only to Monte Alban, and include some of the finest and most complete palaces found anywhere in Mesoamerica. And on the way to Mitla the rider may well want to stop to investigate the ruins at Dainzu, Lambityeco and Yagul — all well worth a visit, and just minutes off the route. Since this ride is lengthy, be sure to allot plenty of time – like the whole day! – to enjoy both the countryside and the archeological sites.

The route shown on the map below begins and ends in the Zocalo in central Oaxaca. It requires pedaling 60.7 miles (97.7 km) along a dedicated bike path, secondary dirt roads, some bushwhacking on singletrack, and a limited amount of riding on the shoulder of the principal highway. The route is remarkably flat, entailing an elevation gain/loss of just 1780 feet (542.5 meters) along the way.  The Zocalo sits at an elevation of 5124 feet (1562 meters), while the main palace complex in Mitla is the high point, registering 5594 feet (1705 meters) above sea level.

Be sure to use sunscreen and carry plenty of water. There are numerous places enroute to stop for snacks, lunch, a cold drink, some ice cream or a snowcone.  Invite some friends to ride along, make a day of it and have an enjoyable time!

San Felipe Tejalapam to Santa Maria Peñoles

If you are looking for a ride that will take you seriously out of the Oaxaca valley to a place where most of the inhabitants speak Mixteca, you might like this trek. The ride is entirely on a newly paved (in 2023) AMLO road that climbs steadily from San Felipe Tejalapam, going in a westerly direction up and over a ridge (high point 8027 feet at Recibimiento) and then dropping down to Santa Maria Peñoles. You are likely to encounter an equal number of pedestrians and vehicles along the way – which is to say, not many.

The total round trip distance is 31.0 miles (50.0 km), with an elevation gain and loss of 4335 feet (1321 meters). The highest point along the way is 8027 feet (2447 meters). It is a consistent uphill grind from San Felipe to where the road crosses over the ridgetop; then its downhill all the way to Santa Maria.

If you begin and end the ride at the Zocalo in Oaxaca city, the round trip distance jumps to 57.0 miles (91.7 km). Add another 7.0 miles (11.3 km) if your starting point is San Felipe del Agua.

Tlalixtac – Lower Mil Rios Trail

The small village of Tlalixtac lies 5.4 miles (8.7 km) east of Oaxaca city, a short distance north of the main highway to Tlacolula and Mitla. A number of good bike rides pass through this little town. This particular outing originates at the town square and proceeds on dirt roads and rocky singletrack up into a nearby mountain valley that provides water and firewood to the inhabitants of Tlalixtac. The road exists to service the four dams constructed in the lower part of the valley. Beyond the dams the path gradually diminishes until it is a narrow track through the forest — sometimes smooth and flowing; at other times studded with rocks. A skilled biker can ride the whole thing; average riders will likely have to hike-a-bike from time to time. There are fifteen creek crossings between the dams and the cascada at the far end of the valley (that makes 30 crossings out & back), but many are dry or have little water, depending on the time of year. There are no grand vistas to lure you up this trail, but you will surely enjoy the shady, winding path into the hills. This is also an excellent hiking trail, so feel free to ditch your bike and continue on foot if the going gets too intimidating for two-wheeled travel.

The distance from the Tlalixtac town center to the cascada is 13.7 miles (22.0 km) round trip, with an elevation gain and loss of 1283 feet (391 meters). If you choose to ride from the Zócalo in central Oaxaca (as shown on the second map below), you will accumulate a total of 24.5 miles (39.4 km) on the round trip, and the elevation gain & loss will amount to 2602 feet (793 meters).  Either option is a pleasant ride.

Guacamayas to La Cumbre

Not all the old logging roads in the mountains around Oaxaca city go from point A to point B (many dead end someplace in the forest). Some, however, make for a fine ride that will actually take you someplace. Such a road is the one that winds from Arroyo Guacamayas to La Cumbre Ixtepeji. Like most logging roads, this one follows the contour of the land, winding through the hills, alternately rising over ridges and dropping through valleys at a moderate grade. No special bike handling skills are required for this outing, but the rider should be in good condition, as the way is long, the overall elevation gain and loss is significant, and the road runs at a fairly high altitude. The out & back trip will carry you 31.5 miles (50.7 km), with an elevation gain & loss of 5114 feet (1559 meters). Nice!

This ride is listed as an out & back adventure – and that is how it is shown on the map and elevation chart below. As such, it can be started at either end. It is also possible to start the ride in Oaxaca, making either a greatly extended out & back or a truly spectacular loop ride. The out & back from Oaxaca to Guacamayas and on to La Cumbre and back will clock in at 74 miles (119 km). Whoa! That’s serious mileage, and will take even a strong biker all day, so start early!

Prefer to do a loop ride instead? Then be sure to ride clockwise (Oaxaca > Guacamayas > La Cumbre > Oaxaca), as the ride down from La Cumbre to town will be on Highway 175  –  a well-paved but narrow and very twisty (not to mention quite busy) main road with absolutely no shoulders. Going downhill, you’ll be able to match the speed of motor vehicles, which is a much better option than trying to ride uphill, forcing drivers to dodge around you, often on blind corners! The loop will put 57 miles (91.7 km) on your odometer, which – together with the elevation gain of about 6800 feet (2062 meters) – should give your legs a considerable workout.