One of the most popular rides in the Valles Centrales around Oaxaca is the out & back excursion to the archeological site at Dainzu. While the ancient ruins of temple mount, ball court, palace structure and the jaguar tomb are a worthy destination in and of themselves, it is the ride through the countryside to get there which is the main attraction for cyclists on a Sunday morning. That was certainly the case on 4 December 2022 when eight riders set out from Santo Domingo church at 9 am. It was a bright day with just a few clouds decorating a blue sky. The temperature was mild – perfect for riding – but a blustery wind was blowing most of the morning. Once again our gps unit malfunctioned, so the map below is from a previous similar ride.
Cyclists of a different kind assembled for a ride to protest violence against women.We took the paved bike path on the way to Tule.Pavement is fine, but most of our riders prefer dirt lanes.Nothing beats a Sunday ride in the country.At Dainzu we found a dog hankering for a drink of water and a handout of food. Smiling faces all around.
The Cuishe trail is the newest venue offered in the “Hoofing It In Oaxaca” `hiking program sponsored by the Oaxaca Lending Library (see details at www.HoofingItInOaxaca.com). Larry decided to check it out one weekday in late August. It made for a very satisfying ride in the rolling hills on the flanks of the mountains which form the western boundary of the Valles Centrales. Moving at a leisurely pace and exploring some side roads, the round trip took four hours to complete. Stronger riders can make it out and back in about three hours. This was a shuttle ride, with bike and rider driving almost to La Lobera to get onto the trail, which is mostly a dirt road. Though relatively short in terms of distance, the ride is rated moderate to difficult because some of the gradients run to 11% and 12% – though most of the climbs are in the 5% to 6% range. This could be an out & back ride from central Oaxaca, but that would add at least another 48 kilometers (30 miles) to the distance – a pretty formidable day’s excursion. A new “destination” restaurant has set up shop in the countryside near La Raya. Owned and operated by the chef at Casa Oaxaca, “El Portozuelo” is an interesting mix of rustic setting and upscale cuisine. The restaurant is open only on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays.
The Cuishe Trail offers great views of the Zimatlan valley.
Hikers as well as mountain bikers enjoy this ramble through the country.
The hills are emerald green in August.
Some of the wild grasses display a rose color.
Stirring up some mole negro at the El Portozuelo restaurant near La Raya.
Ladies in the kitchen prepare lunches at this rustic but upscale eatery.
The restaurant raises it own vegetables and herbs.
Oaxaca received 2.5 inches of rain Friday into Saturday, with another quarter inch Saturday night into Sunday. The precipitation was most welcome, as rainfall has been sparse this summer. But while farmers rejoice at thundershowers, cyclists less so. However, skies were clearing on Sunday morning as a group of intrepid bikers set out at 9 am for a ride to the presas of Santo Domingo Tomaltepec. Along the way we spotted a large contingent of roadies in a race going to Huayapm. Outbound, our route took us through Tlalixtac and Santo Domingo. Stopping for a rest and some photos at the second of the presas, we found an enterprising couple had set up a small comedor there and were serving memelas and offering cold drinks. There were a good number of other cyclists there, along with a handful of fisherman. From the reservoir the group continued up the valley, crossing the steam which feeds the lakes a half-dozen times going each way. Again we were passed by a significant number of bikers heading back to the city, some in racing attire. One group of about a dozen were youngsters of around fourteen years old who came flying down the trail, obviously having a great time. On the way home our group split, with some retracing our route through Tlalixtac and the others passing through Tule and then taking the bike path to Oaxaca.
It was a beautiful morning once the rain clouds dissipated.
Dozens of road racers took to the highway.
Lots of mud in a construction zone in Tlalixtac.
Into the open countryside.
The upper reservoir above Tomaltepec is one of the prettiest in the area.
The five bikers on today’s ride.
Plenty of other cyclists at the lake this Sunday.
The comedor set up at the presa – memelas were the specialty.
There were six stream crossings in the final two miles of trail.
The last two weeks of July are a festive time in Oaxaca because that is when the Guelaguetza takes place. The Guelaguetza is the largest festival of indigenous dance and music in Mexico and attracts spectators from far and near. Today’s ride (Sunday, 24 July 2022) was, appropriately, an excursion to the giant statue of the Danzante of Zimatlan. Nearby on the same hill is a small outdoor theater where a troup of local dancers were rehearsing for a show to take place later. Our bikers enjoyed watching the performance after climbing to the top of the hill for a closer look at the Danzante and to admire the view out over the Zimatlan valley. A total of eight riders – four gringos and four natives – took part in the excursion, which covered a round-trip distance of 56 kilometers (35 miles) with an elevation gain and loss of about 152.5 meters (500 feet). As happens frequently on rides that pass by Zaachila, the group opted to stop at the local mercado gastronomic for either a late breakfast or early lunch. From that point it was an uneventful ride back to Oaxaca, except for a light rain that dampened our jerseys but not our spirits. All in all, it was a good day’s ride!
Today’s group was composed of four gringos and four natives.
Pedaling through Xoxocotlan on the way to open countryside.
A beautiful day to ride!
One of our seniors is also one of the strongest riders.
A hitchhiker on today’s excursion
Keep those pedals moving!
Local dancers from Zimatlan practice their dance steps.
Andy B. planned this outing for our weekly Sunday bike ride. He laid out a long loop to take riders deep into the Tlacolula valley and back. Cyclists would take the bike path to Tule, then ride backcountry roads through Rojas de Cuauhtémoc, Santa Rosa Buena Vista and San Sebastian Teitipac before arriving at San Juan Teitipac, our destination and turnaround point. The group rested and purchased food and beverages at the Sunday market behind the old Dominican monastery in the center of town. Following a slightly different route home, the group pedaled through Santa Cruz Papalutla, San Sebastian Abasolo and Santa Maria Guelacé before once again passing through Santa Maria el Tule on the last leg of the journey. There were eleven riders in the group, which consisted of seven men and four women. Three of the cyclists were newcomers to the band and handled the ride quite well. Moving at a leisurely pace, the riders covered a total of 61.5 kilometers (38.2 miles), with a modest 286.5 meters (940 feet) of elevation gain and loss on the circuit. With several stops along the way for refreshments, it took 6.5 hours to complete the ride. The weather was perfect for such an excursion through the countryside, with overcast skies that kept the temperature below the 26º C (80º F) mark.
The group gathers for the Sunday morning ride.
A beautiful day to be out on a bike.
Obligatory group photo in Tule.
Andy leads the pack.
A tangle of bikes at a rest stop.
Lots of good food on display in San Juan Teitipac.
Tacos made to order.
A happy bunch of bikers chow down.
Cheers!
A local musician on his way to . . . what? . . . probably a wedding or funeral.
Heading for home.
Passing through another village in the valley.
Every time Dave washes his bike it shrinks a bit more.
Lots of smiles on today’s road trip.
Back in Tule, it is time for an ice cold nieve. Pick your flavor . . . .
