The first day of August was a particularly beautiful day – one that just begged for a long bike ride. So that is exactly what we did. Four friends met at Santo Domingo church at 8 am and set out on a long loop from Oaxaca to San Felipe Tejalapam, then over the hill to San Tomas Mazaltepec and back to Oaxaca – a ride of 59 kilometers (36 miles) with an elevation gain and loss of 512.7 meters (1682 feet). The highest point on the ride was 1855 meters (6088 feet). Recent rains left a number of puddles along the route, which contributed a lot of mud to encrust our bikes and soil our riding gear. Cleaning the bikes afterward required using a putty knife to pry off the bigger chunks of dried muck. That chore notwithstanding, it was a great ride.
The first day of August 2023 was a gorgeous day to be biking. The road between Tejalapam and Mazalteped had a gradient of 15% in places, requiring some strong pedaling – or hike-a-biking!
The ecotourism camp and bike park at La Cumbre Ixtepeji is just 24 kilometers (15 miles) from Oaxaca, making it a favorite destination for both hikers and mountain bikers, given its close proximity to the city. Enduro riders usually shuttle to the park and then enjoy swooping along the many downhill-specific trails built there in recent years. But La Cumbre is a worthy destination in itself for anyone wanting to test their stamina making the 1161 meter (3808 foot) climb from Oaxaca. That is exactly what this ride was about. Using a combination of back roads and Hwy 175, going by way of El Studiante and Tierra Colrado on the climb up, it took 110 minutes to get from the Candiani neighborhood on the south side of town to the office at the entrance to La Cumbre. The exhilarating downhill ride back – all on the highway – took a mere 60 minutes. The display on my Trek “Rail” e-bike showed five bars at the outset, indicating a fully charged battery. Using the pedal-assist motor to help on the climb dropped the indicator three bars. That left two bars for the return journey – more than enough power, as the motor was shut off for the screamer descent to the floor of the Oaxaca valley. That downhill run pushed the speedometer to 67 kms (42 miles) per hour in some places before brakes were applied to make the next curve. Yee-haw! Total distance covered amounted to 53 kilometers (32.9 miles) on the round trip, which took 3.5 hours – counting a couple of rest stops and time for a cup of hot chocolate at La Cumbre.
Welcome to the La Cumbre mountain bike park!The office at the entrance to La Cumbre where visitors register and pay an admission fee. Some downhill riders get ready to unload their bikes.
One of the most popular rides in the Valles Centrales around Oaxaca is the out & back excursion to the archeological site at Dainzu. While the ancient ruins of temple mount, ball court, palace structure and the jaguar tomb are a worthy destination in and of themselves, it is the ride through the countryside to get there which is the main attraction for cyclists on a Sunday morning. That was certainly the case on 4 December 2022 when eight riders set out from Santo Domingo church at 9 am. It was a bright day with just a few clouds decorating a blue sky. The temperature was mild – perfect for riding – but a blustery wind was blowing most of the morning. Once again our gps unit malfunctioned, so the map below is from a previous similar ride.
Cyclists of a different kind assembled for a ride to protest violence against women.We took the paved bike path on the way to Tule.Pavement is fine, but most of our riders prefer dirt lanes.Nothing beats a Sunday ride in the country.At Dainzu we found a dog hankering for a drink of water and a handout of food. Smiling faces all around.
The Cuishe trail is the newest venue offered in the “Hoofing It In Oaxaca” `hiking program sponsored by the Oaxaca Lending Library (see details at www.HoofingItInOaxaca.com). Larry decided to check it out one weekday in late August. It made for a very satisfying ride in the rolling hills on the flanks of the mountains which form the western boundary of the Valles Centrales. Moving at a leisurely pace and exploring some side roads, the round trip took four hours to complete. Stronger riders can make it out and back in about three hours. This was a shuttle ride, with bike and rider driving almost to La Lobera to get onto the trail, which is mostly a dirt road. Though relatively short in terms of distance, the ride is rated moderate to difficult because some of the gradients run to 11% and 12% – though most of the climbs are in the 5% to 6% range. This could be an out & back ride from central Oaxaca, but that would add at least another 48 kilometers (30 miles) to the distance – a pretty formidable day’s excursion. A new “destination” restaurant has set up shop in the countryside near La Raya. Owned and operated by the chef at Casa Oaxaca, “El Portozuelo” is an interesting mix of rustic setting and upscale cuisine. The restaurant is open only on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays.
The Cuishe Trail offers great views of the Zimatlan valley.
Hikers as well as mountain bikers enjoy this ramble through the country.
The hills are emerald green in August.
Some of the wild grasses display a rose color.
Stirring up some mole negro at the El Portozuelo restaurant near La Raya.
Ladies in the kitchen prepare lunches at this rustic but upscale eatery.
The restaurant raises it own vegetables and herbs.
Oaxaca received 2.5 inches of rain Friday into Saturday, with another quarter inch Saturday night into Sunday. The precipitation was most welcome, as rainfall has been sparse this summer. But while farmers rejoice at thundershowers, cyclists less so. However, skies were clearing on Sunday morning as a group of intrepid bikers set out at 9 am for a ride to the presas of Santo Domingo Tomaltepec. Along the way we spotted a large contingent of roadies in a race going to Huayapm. Outbound, our route took us through Tlalixtac and Santo Domingo. Stopping for a rest and some photos at the second of the presas, we found an enterprising couple had set up a small comedor there and were serving memelas and offering cold drinks. There were a good number of other cyclists there, along with a handful of fisherman. From the reservoir the group continued up the valley, crossing the steam which feeds the lakes a half-dozen times going each way. Again we were passed by a significant number of bikers heading back to the city, some in racing attire. One group of about a dozen were youngsters of around fourteen years old who came flying down the trail, obviously having a great time. On the way home our group split, with some retracing our route through Tlalixtac and the others passing through Tule and then taking the bike path to Oaxaca.
It was a beautiful morning once the rain clouds dissipated.
Dozens of road racers took to the highway.
Lots of mud in a construction zone in Tlalixtac.
Into the open countryside.
The upper reservoir above Tomaltepec is one of the prettiest in the area.
The five bikers on today’s ride.
Plenty of other cyclists at the lake this Sunday.
The comedor set up at the presa – memelas were the specialty.
There were six stream crossings in the final two miles of trail.
