When riding the foothills trail from San Felipe del Aqua to Huayapam a few weeks ago, one member of the group pointed out a forest road going higher into the mountains, which he said made for a nice ride. I decided to go that way today. Glad I did. It was a pleasant, if rather short, ride. There were great views looking out over the Oaxaca valley. And where the road ended there was a spider web of hiking trails, some continuing up the mountain, and others dropping down and (probably) ending at the entry gate to the Benito Juarez National park. We will have to plan an exploratory hike here one day to map the hiking trails and find out where they lead.
Today’s ride followed a logging road at a back entrance to the parklands above Donaji.Beautiful mountain vista close to Oaxaca city. A hiking trail continuing uphill where the logging road ends. These roads and trails are in Benito Juarez National Park. A great view of the Oaxaca valley from high on the hillside. There is an abandoned mine high up the hill.A substantial tunnel burrows into the mountain.Lots of small bats make their home at the end of the tunnel.Watch for the sign on the left side of the trail going uphill or you may pass by the mine without seeing it.
One of the most popular rides in the Valles Centrales around Oaxaca is the out & back excursion to the archeological site at Dainzu. While the ancient ruins of temple mount, ball court, palace structure and the jaguar tomb are a worthy destination in and of themselves, it is the ride through the countryside to get there which is the main attraction for cyclists on a Sunday morning. That was certainly the case on 4 December 2022 when eight riders set out from Santo Domingo church at 9 am. It was a bright day with just a few clouds decorating a blue sky. The temperature was mild – perfect for riding – but a blustery wind was blowing most of the morning. Once again our gps unit malfunctioned, so the map below is from a previous similar ride.
Cyclists of a different kind assembled for a ride to protest violence against women.We took the paved bike path on the way to Tule.Pavement is fine, but most of our riders prefer dirt lanes.Nothing beats a Sunday ride in the country.At Dainzu we found a dog hankering for a drink of water and a handout of food. Smiling faces all around.
The Cuishe trail is the newest venue offered in the “Hoofing It In Oaxaca” `hiking program sponsored by the Oaxaca Lending Library (see details at www.HoofingItInOaxaca.com). Larry decided to check it out one weekday in late August. It made for a very satisfying ride in the rolling hills on the flanks of the mountains which form the western boundary of the Valles Centrales. Moving at a leisurely pace and exploring some side roads, the round trip took four hours to complete. Stronger riders can make it out and back in about three hours. This was a shuttle ride, with bike and rider driving almost to La Lobera to get onto the trail, which is mostly a dirt road. Though relatively short in terms of distance, the ride is rated moderate to difficult because some of the gradients run to 11% and 12% – though most of the climbs are in the 5% to 6% range. This could be an out & back ride from central Oaxaca, but that would add at least another 48 kilometers (30 miles) to the distance – a pretty formidable day’s excursion. A new “destination” restaurant has set up shop in the countryside near La Raya. Owned and operated by the chef at Casa Oaxaca, “El Portozuelo” is an interesting mix of rustic setting and upscale cuisine. The restaurant is open only on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays.
The Cuishe Trail offers great views of the Zimatlan valley.
Hikers as well as mountain bikers enjoy this ramble through the country.
The hills are emerald green in August.
Some of the wild grasses display a rose color.
Stirring up some mole negro at the El Portozuelo restaurant near La Raya.
Ladies in the kitchen prepare lunches at this rustic but upscale eatery.
The restaurant raises it own vegetables and herbs.
Oaxaca received 2.5 inches of rain Friday into Saturday, with another quarter inch Saturday night into Sunday. The precipitation was most welcome, as rainfall has been sparse this summer. But while farmers rejoice at thundershowers, cyclists less so. However, skies were clearing on Sunday morning as a group of intrepid bikers set out at 9 am for a ride to the presas of Santo Domingo Tomaltepec. Along the way we spotted a large contingent of roadies in a race going to Huayapm. Outbound, our route took us through Tlalixtac and Santo Domingo. Stopping for a rest and some photos at the second of the presas, we found an enterprising couple had set up a small comedor there and were serving memelas and offering cold drinks. There were a good number of other cyclists there, along with a handful of fisherman. From the reservoir the group continued up the valley, crossing the steam which feeds the lakes a half-dozen times going each way. Again we were passed by a significant number of bikers heading back to the city, some in racing attire. One group of about a dozen were youngsters of around fourteen years old who came flying down the trail, obviously having a great time. On the way home our group split, with some retracing our route through Tlalixtac and the others passing through Tule and then taking the bike path to Oaxaca.
It was a beautiful morning once the rain clouds dissipated.
Dozens of road racers took to the highway.
Lots of mud in a construction zone in Tlalixtac.
Into the open countryside.
The upper reservoir above Tomaltepec is one of the prettiest in the area.
The five bikers on today’s ride.
Plenty of other cyclists at the lake this Sunday.
The comedor set up at the presa – memelas were the specialty.
There were six stream crossings in the final two miles of trail.
Sunday, 31 July 2022 was (another) gorgeous day for a mountain bike ride. Our route was one of our favorites – a long loop from Oaxaca to San Felipe Tejalápam to San Andrés Ixtlahuaca and back to Oaxaca. We zig-zagged a bit and wound up crossing the same stream multiple times just past Tejalápam. There are at least three roads that snake over the ridge of hills separating San Felipe and San Andrés. We chose the longest because it was the least steep of the lot, though still a formidable climb. The Ixtalhuaca valley was especially beautiful, with the farm fields and hillsides a vibrant green. All told, we pedaled 50.9 kilometers (31.6 miles), with an elevation gain and loss of 493 meters (1618 feet). There were no mechanical problems or flat tires to mar the ride, which ran five hours from 9 am to 2 pm. The weather forecast was for rain in the Valles Centrales sometime after two o’clock, and we saw dark storm clouds developing along the Sierra Norte. Happily, we stayed dry – except for those stream crossings. Sorry, no one in the group took any photos along the way to share with you.
