Eleven intrepid cyclists showed up for today’s Sunday ride, which went from the center of Oaxaca out through Tlalixtac, up the Los Molinos trail to the waterfall and then along Hwy 175 to El Estudiante – a round trip distance of 37.6 kilometers (23.4 miles). Elevation gain and loss on the route totaled 513 meters (1683 feet). Though the temperature was a brisk 11° C (52° F) at 8 am, intense sunshine was forecast to push the thermometer to 31° C (88° F) by mid-afternoon, making for a marvelous day to be aboard a bicycle. Most of our Sunday rides are pretty mellow, with a rating of easy to moderate. Today’s excursion, though, pushed to the edge of the “difficult” category, given the challenges of the single track trail leading to the cascada and then up to the highway. Nevertheless, everyone in the group – including three newcomers – managed quite well. That said, all seemed quite happy to return to the city via the highway rather than endure again the hike-a-bike sections traversed on the outbound leg of the ride.
Zipping along the newly-paved section of the Los Molinos trail.Riding an unpaved portion of trail.Group photo-op at the old mill ruins.A refreshing pause at the small cascada at the end of the Los Moliinos trail in the hills above Tlalixtac.
There are miles of backcountry roads and a snaggle of single track trails in the hills north and west of Santiago Suchilquitongo that are a lure to mountain bikers looking to explore new territory. This post recounts two similar but distinct rides.
RIDE ONE: To scratch the itch of adventure, two cyclists set out from Oaxaca to shuttle their bikes 33 kilometers (20.5 miles) to Suchilquitoingo one morning, intent on discovering what that region has to offer. This being an exploratory trip and a first-time visit, the day’s route rested on a roll of the dice as to which direction to ride. First up was a trek up the hill just west of the cuota to Mexico City past the Technologico Nacional de Mexico. What started as a promising ride on an unpaved country lane soon devolved into a jeep road and then a narrow, ill-defined single track which climbed up to a ridge overlooking the valley spread below. Near the top the trail became so faint and steep the riders deemed it best to turn around and retrace their path. Back in the valley, the cyclists had better luck following a freshly-graded road winding westward past two reservoirs, with the road climbing steadily upward for a number of miles. After pedaling for two hours, the pair decided to head back, calling the day’s excursion a success. The stats for the day are: 22 kilometers (13.7 miles) ridden, with an elevation gain and loss of 596 meters (1956 feet). See first map, below.
RIDE TWO: Intrigued by the road which seemed to wind ever higher and deeper into the nearby mountains, cyclists returned a second time to explore the area further. Turns out this old road is a winner! The lower portion is mainly sundrenched, but the upper sections offer good forest shade. The first five miles provide moderate climbs and descents as the track weaves through the woods. The next 1.3 miles are steeper, with grades of 8 to 15 percent. The final seven-tenths of a mile climb is a challenge, with lots of loose sand and a gradient of up to 20% in places. An ebike is a real asset and is definitely in its element here! The ride stats are: distance 21.7 km (13.5 miles) / elevation gain & loss 781 meters (2563 feet) / ride time of 2.5 hours on ebikes. See second map, below.
Scampering up a trail in the hills near Huitzo.A spectacular view of the countryside. The first of two reservoirs on today’s outing. The same reservoir seen from further up the mountain.The long, winding road up into the mountains. Lots of zigging and zagging along the way. Deep in the forest and high on the hill.
Centuries ago, in the early days of transatlantic travel, mariners and merchants went in search of a fabled northwest passage in the Arctic that would connect the Atlantic to the Pacific oceans. No such route was ever found (though with global warming and the melting of the polar ice cap one may someday be revealed).
In a similar fashion, one of our cyclists thought there must surely be a way to ride from the northern reaches of Oaxaca across the flank of Cero San Felipe to the town of Viguera and into the Etla valley. This would bypass the main highway, with its tremendous vehicular traffic, and the never-completed Libramiento Norte bypass road, with its formidable uphill climb to a pass at the top. After studying road maps, he thought he had found such a route, albeit rather roundabout, that followed the contour of the mountain. So on this Monday morning two intrepid riders set out to find the way. Sadly, the map program showed any number of routes which turned out to be drainage channels, long flights of stairs on steep hillsides or were dead ends. Failing to find a through passage, the riders descended to the valley floor and rode into Viguera. Undeterred by their misadventure, they succeeded in reaching San Pablo Etla and riding to the La Mesita park and preserve well up the mountainside. The ride home was less adventurous and much easier, following known roads. From start to finish, the ride covered 52 kilometers (32.3 miles), with an elevation gain and loss of 810 meters (2657 feet). This was a good workout for legs and lungs, as some of the hill climbs had a gradient of 17% in places. The outing was deemed a success, despite not having found that elusive northwest passage.
Neither sailing ships of old or an ebike could find the northwest passage.Pedaling up the mountainside to La Mesita.
When riding the foothills trail from San Felipe del Aqua to Huayapam a few weeks ago, one member of the group pointed out a forest road going higher into the mountains, which he said made for a nice ride. I decided to go that way today. Glad I did. It was a pleasant, if rather short, ride. There were great views looking out over the Oaxaca valley. And where the road ended there was a spider web of hiking trails, some continuing up the mountain, and others dropping down and (probably) ending at the entry gate to the Benito Juarez National park. We will have to plan an exploratory hike here one day to map the hiking trails and find out where they lead.
Today’s ride followed a logging road at a back entrance to the parklands above Donaji.Beautiful mountain vista close to Oaxaca city. A hiking trail continuing uphill where the logging road ends. These roads and trails are in Benito Juarez National Park. A great view of the Oaxaca valley from high on the hillside. There is an abandoned mine high up the hill.A substantial tunnel burrows into the mountain.Lots of small bats make their home at the end of the tunnel.Watch for the sign on the left side of the trail going uphill or you may pass by the mine without seeing it.
The Cuishe trail is the newest venue offered in the “Hoofing It In Oaxaca” `hiking program sponsored by the Oaxaca Lending Library (see details at www.HoofingItInOaxaca.com). Larry decided to check it out one weekday in late August. It made for a very satisfying ride in the rolling hills on the flanks of the mountains which form the western boundary of the Valles Centrales. Moving at a leisurely pace and exploring some side roads, the round trip took four hours to complete. Stronger riders can make it out and back in about three hours. This was a shuttle ride, with bike and rider driving almost to La Lobera to get onto the trail, which is mostly a dirt road. Though relatively short in terms of distance, the ride is rated moderate to difficult because some of the gradients run to 11% and 12% – though most of the climbs are in the 5% to 6% range. This could be an out & back ride from central Oaxaca, but that would add at least another 48 kilometers (30 miles) to the distance – a pretty formidable day’s excursion. A new “destination” restaurant has set up shop in the countryside near La Raya. Owned and operated by the chef at Casa Oaxaca, “El Portozuelo” is an interesting mix of rustic setting and upscale cuisine. The restaurant is open only on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays.
The Cuishe Trail offers great views of the Zimatlan valley.
Hikers as well as mountain bikers enjoy this ramble through the country.
The hills are emerald green in August.
Some of the wild grasses display a rose color.
Stirring up some mole negro at the El Portozuelo restaurant near La Raya.
Ladies in the kitchen prepare lunches at this rustic but upscale eatery.
The restaurant raises it own vegetables and herbs.
