Category: Countryside

San Marcos Tlapazola

The village of San Marcos Tlapazola is situated 8.8 kms (5.5 miles) south-southwest of Tlacolula de Matamoros where it is nestled up against the mountains which form the southern rim of that part of the Valles Centrales of Oaxaca. It is the destination for one of the longer and more arduous weekly bike rides in our repetoire. Four bikers formed the small group which pedaled this way on 12 August 2023. Their route was essentially the same as shown on the map below, recorded in May of 2022. What distinguished this outing was the fact that torrential rain a day or two earlier had pushed the Rio Salado well above flood stage, necessitating detours around two places where our path crossed the stream. The water was muddy, making it impossible to gauge its depth, and extensive mud on the exposed riverbank discouraged any attempt to continue that way. Not surprisingly, there were a lot of mud puddles to be avoided everywhere beyond Tlacochahuaya. Water and muck notwithstanding, the group soldiered on, completing the circuit in just short of six hours. Then it was time to give our two-wheeled chariots thorough baths.

Variations On A Theme

Time and again the ride from Oaxaca to San Juan Teitipac is a favorite for the weekly Sunday morning outing. Yes, we have gone this route before – multiple times. But it is just so very pleasant no one ever tires of it, and there are sufficient combinations of country roads to get there and back to keep the scenery interesting. It helps that every Sunday the ladies of San Juan set up an outdoor comedor behind the monastery where hungry cyclists can get their fill of delicious, fresh-made tacos, tlayudas and other treats. Today’s crew consisted of three men and three women, varying in age from the mid 20’s to late 70’s, all evenly matched in biking ability. It was – as usual – a beautiful day to be in the saddle. The group pedaled a total of 59 kilometers (36.9 miles), gaining and losing a modest 231 meters (760 feet) in elevation on the circuit. A good time was had by all.

Color Me Mud

The first day of August was a particularly beautiful day – one that just begged for a long bike ride. So that is exactly what we did. Four friends met at Santo Domingo church at 8 am and set out on a long loop from Oaxaca to San Felipe Tejalapam, then over the hill to San Tomas Mazaltepec and back to Oaxaca – a ride of 59 kilometers (36 miles) with an elevation gain and loss of 512.7 meters (1682 feet). The highest point on the ride was 1855 meters (6088 feet). Recent rains left a number of puddles along the route, which contributed a lot of mud to encrust our bikes and soil our riding gear. Cleaning the bikes afterward required using a putty knife to pry off the bigger chunks of dried muck. That chore notwithstanding, it was a great ride.

To Dainzu And Back

One of the most popular rides in the Valles Centrales around Oaxaca is the out & back excursion to the archeological site at Dainzu. While the ancient ruins of temple mount, ball court, palace structure and the jaguar tomb are a worthy destination in and of themselves, it is the ride through the countryside to get there which is the main attraction for cyclists on a Sunday morning. That was certainly the case on 4 December 2022 when eight riders set out from Santo Domingo church at 9 am. It was a bright day with just a few clouds decorating a blue sky. The temperature was mild – perfect for riding – but a blustery wind was blowing most of the morning. Once again our gps unit malfunctioned, so the map below is from a previous similar ride.

Cuishe Trail

The Cuishe trail is the newest venue offered in the “Hoofing It In Oaxaca” `hiking program sponsored by the Oaxaca Lending Library (see details at www.HoofingItInOaxaca.com). Larry decided to check it out one weekday in late August. It made for a very satisfying ride in the rolling hills on the flanks of the mountains which form the western boundary of the Valles Centrales. Moving at a leisurely pace and exploring some side roads, the round trip took four hours to complete. Stronger riders can make it out and back in about three hours. This was a shuttle ride, with bike and rider driving almost to La Lobera to get onto the trail, which is mostly a dirt road. Though relatively short in terms of distance, the ride is rated moderate to difficult because some of the gradients run to 11% and 12% – though most of the climbs are in the 5% to 6% range. This could be an out & back ride from central Oaxaca, but that would add at least another 48 kilometers (30 miles) to the distance – a pretty formidable day’s excursion. A new “destination” restaurant has set up shop in the countryside near La Raya. Owned and operated by the chef at Casa Oaxaca, “El Portozuelo” is an interesting mix of rustic setting and upscale cuisine. The restaurant is open only on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays.