Category: Countryside

Marching To The Beat Of A (Somewhat) Different Drummer

The destination for the ride this Sunday was Jalapa del Valle. This is a frequent end point for many excursions aboard a bike. Indeed, there are at least a dozen such outings listed elsewhere on this website, which attests to the enduring popularity of this ride – or the lack of any other destination in this corner of the Oaxaca valley. Nine cyclists, including four newbies to the group, set out from Santo Domingo Church at 8:15 am on a sunny and mild day in late November. The first half of the ride was mellow, consisting of mostly paved roads with minimum hill climbing going through San Lorenzo Cacaotepec and San Felipe Tejalapam to Jalapa del Valle. After lunch in Jalapa, the ride was more challenging. The route out of Jalapa entailed a long climb to the top of the ridge which isolates the valley of the Rio Jalapilla from the rest of the Valles Centrales. At just over 1829 meters (6002 feet), this was the highest point on the ride. At that point a couple of less experienced riders opted to stick to the paved road which winds downhill in the direction of San Pedro Ixtlahuaca. The rest of the gang rode a little-used jeep road which followed the ridgeline running to the east, connecting with the gravel road which links Tejalapam with San Andres Ixtlahuaca. This was the high point of the day, not just in altitude but in technical challenges, as well. To their credit, all seven cyclists proved quite capable on the “Yee-haw” descent, flying over loose patches of gravel and dodging deep ruts in the road. Total mileage accumulated on the ride came to 53 kilometers (33 miles). Riders spent five hours in the saddle and one hour having lunch at the Comidor Campestre.

Santo Domingo & Santa Cecilia Jalieza

The Days of the Dead – November 1 & 2 – are national holidays in Mexico. At this time people honor their deceased relatives by decorating their graves with lavish flower bouquets and spend time communing with the spirits of the dead. This holiday is more important than Christmas, Easter or any other fiesta in the calendar year. This ride on 2 November to the small villages of Santo Domingo and Santa Cecilia Jalieza took cyclists past six cemeteries, all resplendent with flowers and crowded with the living descendants of those interred there. Though hardly evident now, archeologists say that at one time the Jalieza region of the Valles Centrales of Oaxaca was the most densely populated in the area. Even today the hidden valley between San Antonio Buenavista and Santa Cecilia is wonderfully scenic and a worthy destination for a bike ride. The 70 kilometer (43.6 mile) route is pretty mellow. Though the terrain is not flat, the hills are not that many or particularly challenging, making this an inviting excursion for anyone with decent biking skills.

Santa Cecilia Jalieza

On a fine fall day in October 2023 five biking buddies set out from Oaxaca to ride to Santa Cecilia Jalieza and back, making an attempt to explore some dirt roads in the Tlacolula valley never ridden before. The unfamiliar terrain resulted in following a few country lanes that wound up depositing the riders in the middle of some corn fields. Not a problem, though! Everyone was in fine spirits and it was a lovely day to wander about on a bike. Passing through Santa Maria el Tule again on the return leg of the loop ride, the gang stopped to chow down at the El Milenario restaurant, a favorite lunch stop any time cyclists are in that neck of the woods. The final mileage tally for the day was 66.9 kilometers (41.6 miles), with an elevation gain and loss of 459 meters (1507 feet). Though a bit saddlesore and weary at the end, everyone declared the outing to be scenic and fun. What more could one ask?

Fiesta de Carrizo in Santa Cruz Papalutla

The rural village of Santa Cruz Papalutla, situated near the center of the Tlacolula Valley, often sees mountain bikers pass through but rarely stop there. Today was an exception, as the townspeople held a festival celebrating the weaving of hats, baskets and other items from straw and carrizo (a form of bamboo which looks like sugar cane). The main street was cordoned off and covered with tents, beneath which artisans displayed their wares and ladies served fresh-made local foods. The eight cyclists on today’s ride stopped there for a tasty brunch before pedaling on to San Juan Teitipac and then circling back to Oaxaca city. The map below shows the route followed, which entailed pedaling 59.5 kilometers (37.0 miles) with an elevation gain and loss of 303.6 meters (996 feet) on the circuit.

Suchilquitongo – Part One

Where to ride next? That question looms large for those who have ridden the roads and trails around Oaxaca for many years. While there are any number of terrific rides to be had in the Valles Centrales, folks gets weary of repeating the same route over and over. One longs for the excitement and sense of adventure associated with exploring new territory. So on this Tuesday excursion a small group of friends set out for the archeological ruins atop a hill just outside the town of Suchilquitongo, which is located near Huitzo at the northwestern limit of the Valley of Oaxaca. The weather was perfect (as usual) for this fall outing in early October. Four riders set out with no set route, preferring to explore various byways leading in the direction of Huitzo. This resulted in a number of false turns and some backtracking along the way, but that only added to the sense of adventure. Eventually the group did reach Suchilquitongo and located the archeological site, which was comprised of the remains of a plaza, a ball court, and three temple mounts – all with a spectacular view of the surrounding countryside. Not wanting to simply retrace their outbound route, the gang continued to wander about in search of a new way back to Oaxaca. All told, the ride covered 80.6 kilometers (50.2 miles), with an elevation gain and loss of 536.8 meters (1761 feet) on the circuit.