Category: Countryside

Loop Ride: San Felipe / San Bartolo Coyotepec / Zaachila / Cuilapam / San Felipe

This is a great loop ride through open countryside with very little elevation change. San Bartolo Coyotepec is the village famous for shiny black, intricately incised pottery. There is a very good public gallery there featuring work from regional artisans who are expert craftsman working in ceramic, wood, metal, paint and other mediums. Zaachila is a very ancient, yet thriving community. The Zapotec ruins in the center of town are worth a visit, as is the weekly market on Thursdays. Cuilapam is historically one of the Mixtec villages on the outskirts of Oaxaca city, and features ruins of a never-finished Dominican convent.

The route takes you on city streets through Oaxaca, then along a principal highway to San Bartolo, where you jog to the west on a little-used but well-paved road to Zaachila. From Zaachila you can either follow the track shown below, which meanders on footpaths and backcountry dirt roads, or opt for the (shorter)  paved highway to Cuilapam. The final segment from Cuilapam back to Oaxaca is along a busy stretch of road. It is best to do this ride on a Sunday, when traffic is just a fraction of what it is other days of the week.

I neglected to turn on my GPS unit until I was in downtown Oaxaca, so the elevation plot below is missing the initial 375 foot descent from San Felipe into town — not a problem if you begin and end your ride at the Zocalo.

The entire loop covers about 32 miles (51.5 km), and there is an elevation loss & gain of about 1425 feet (434 meters) along the way. If you elect to do this ride, but use the Zocalo instead of San Felipe as the start / end point, the distance will be 7 miles shorter and the elevation gain / loss will be 750 feet less.


 

Teotitlan del Valle

The village of Teotitlan del Valle is famous as the home of some of the best weavers in Oaxaca state. It is also one of the oldest continuously inhabited towns in the world — people have lived there for about 9000 years, putting it in the same category as Damascus and towns in the Fertile Crescent in Persia. It is situated on the north side of the Tlacolula Valley not many miles east of Oaxaca city. A bike ride there on a pretty day can be most enjoyable!

The track on the map below shows the route we followed one Sunday, riding out-and-back from the Krotalus Bike shop (Calle Sabinos 309-B in Colonia Reforma / www.krotalusmtb.com.mx). Bernardo, the store manager, showed me the route he likes to follow on this ride, which stays away from busy streets and the main highway and uses bike paths and country back roads, instead.

We covered 34.6 miles (55.7 km) on this ride, and recorded an elevation gain of 1121 feet (342 meters), most of that in the final leg getting to Teotitlan. Riding at a moderate pace – and stopping for lunch in Teotitlan – we finished the ride in a bit over four hours.

Outing – Larry’s DAM Ride

This ride is a longer variation of another ride listed here – that going to Santo Domingo Tomaltepec. The route shown below uses San Felipe as the start / end point, rather than the Krotalus Bike Shop. Also, the return follows a different route, going through the villages of Tlalixtac and Huayapam. Consequenlty, this ride is 30.5 miles (49 km) long and has an elevation gain & loss of 2427 feet (740 meters) along the way. Nevertheless, it is every bit as much fun as the shorter version.

Be aware that on the upper reaches of the trail at the far end of the ride there are fourteen stream crossings. You and your bike are guaranteed to get wet. Caution!  There is a large difference in the depth, width and speed of the water in the stream between the dry and the rainy season! Where the water may be only a couple of inches deep in the winter months, it may be a foot or more deep in the summertime. The  stream bed is stable and rideable even in summer, but proceed with caution and use good sense. Of course, you can simply turn around when you get to the first water crossing. It’s still a great outing, and you stay dry for the ride home!