Category: Countryside

Destination: San Pablo Huitzo

San Pablo Huitzo is the principal town located at the northernmost point of the Valley of Oaxaca. It was the chosen destination for a group bike ride this first Sunday in February 2025. The community was celebrating its annual feria this weekend, so there were lots of food vendors set up around the zocalo. Cyclists from Oaxaca going that way usually follow the route of the abandoned railroad that once linked the valley with Mexico City. Though 24 miles distant, it is an easy ride since the terrain is mostly flat the whole way. Today’s riders were a well matched group of seven men and five women, consisting of six locals and six gringos. It was another perfect day, weather-wise, with light scattered clouds and a temperature in the low 20’s C (70’s F). Altogether the gang pedaled 78.5 kilometers (48.8 miles), with a modest 294 meters (965 feet) elevation gain and loss on the way. Note that the map below shows the route going just one way, so the mileage indicated is only half the total distance.

Paseo En Domingo

Anyone keeping a close watch on this website has likely noticed fewer posts in recent months. The reason for this is not that there have been fewer terrific rides, but because most of the back roads and trails around the city of Oaxaca have been pedaled many times over the years; consequently there is nothing new or exciting to report. So why this post? There is an amiable and close-knit group of gringo riders, all snowbirds from the U.S. and Canada wintering in southern Mexico, who get together every Sunday morning for leisurely rides in the country. Unlike some local bike clubs which hit the trail at 7 or 7:30 am even in the depths of winter, the gringos have the good sense to wait until the sun has warmed things up before getting in the saddle at 9 am. This author’s old bones appreciate that touch of civility, and so has joined this group for the winter of 2024-2025. Today’s outing was typical, covering a modest distance at a leisurely pace, with a stop for lunch at a local eatery near the end of the ride. The destination – the trail beyond the two presas in the mountains above Santo Domingo Tomaltepec – has been visited many times before, as it is a very popular target for Sunday hikers and cyclists. Today’s ride covered 44.6 kms (27.7 miles) and entailed gaining and losing 326 meters (1070 feet) in elevation along the way. The gang was enroute for a bit over five hours, counting time for a delicious noon lunch at the Blue Whale in Santa Marie el Tule. It was a sparkling clear day with the thermometer touching 27°C (80°F) by the early afternoon. A good time was had by all.

Ride The Hills

This is an intermediate ride of 51 kilometers (31.7 miles) that takes advantage of some unpaved country roads which loop through the hills located between San Andrés Ixtlahuaca, Jalapa del Valle and San Felipe Tejalapam. Quite a scenic adventure when the hillsides lie green beneath an azure sky. Be advised that the hill climbs are numerous, but not too long or steep. There is an elevation gain and loss of 630 meters (2069 feet) along the way. A group of Sunday riders finished the course in five hours, counting time out for snacks (memelas, tacos & empanadas) at a street vendor’s stall in the zocalo in San Andrés Ixtlahuaca on the way back to Oaxaca.

Hill Country West Of Matadamas

This is the fourth in a series of weekday rides exploring the little-used back roads and trails in the hills to the west of the Mexico cuota some 20-40 kilometers (12 to 24 miles) north-northwest of Oaxaca. The town of Matadamas was the jumping off point for today’s excursion. Similar expeditions have departed from San Andrés Zautla, Santa Cruz Lachixolana and Santiago Suchilquitongo. All offer a generous amount of hill climbing in the midst of great scenery. All of these routes can be accessed on rides originating in Oaxaca as well as by using a shuttle to the designated starting points. This particular outing was a short one of 23.8 kms (14.8 miles) that lasted just 2.5 hours. It could well have been extended by riding more of the trails that crisscross the area. Be advised, though, that accessing these trails can be difficult. When looking out from the top of a ridge, one can see a number of trails off in the distance, but finding and following them is challenging, as many wind up dead-ending in a farmer’s field. Nevertheless, this is a great area for riders with a whimsical spirit of adventure.

San Baltazar Guelavila

There is some good riding to be found on the gravel roads that run upvalley from San Baltazar Guelavila with views of the backside of Hierve el Agua. It is a 90 minute drive to San Baltazar, 64 kilometers (40 miles) southeast of Oaxaca. The objective for today’s outing was a visit to the cascada at Las Salinas, located just over 8 kilometers (5 miles) from San Baltazar. There is a very challenging hiking trail which leads from Las Salinas to Hierve el Agua, but it is not open to bicycles. After linking up with two local guides at the cascada, we continued to ride further through the valley, passing well beyond the rock waterfalls at Hierve el Aqua, which were easily visible across the valley. The road has a good bit of ups and downs, but nothing too steep. However, the road is very rough in places, with lots of loose stones to make your rear tire spin out on the climbs. All in all, this is an interesting destination for a shuttle ride from Oaxaca. We covered 26.2 kms (16.3 miles), gaining and losing 511 meters (1678 feet) in elevation on today’s ride, which took about four hours to complete. We would have pedaled farther but looming rain clouds prompted us to turn back. Happily, we outran the storm, getting just a bit wet at the end.