The Days of the Dead – November 1 & 2 – are national holidays in Mexico. At this time people honor their deceased relatives by decorating their graves with lavish flower bouquets and spend time communing with the spirits of the dead. This holiday is more important than Christmas, Easter or any other fiesta in the calendar year. This ride on 2 November to the small villages of Santo Domingo and Santa Cecilia Jalieza took cyclists past six cemeteries, all resplendent with flowers and crowded with the living descendants of those interred there. Though hardly evident now, archeologists say that at one time the Jalieza region of the Valles Centrales of Oaxaca was the most densely populated in the area. Even today the hidden valley between San Antonio Buenavista and Santa Cecilia is wonderfully scenic and a worthy destination for a bike ride. The 70 kilometer (43.6 mile) route is pretty mellow. Though the terrain is not flat, the hills are not that many or particularly challenging, making this an inviting excursion for anyone with decent biking skills.
There are miles of backcountry roads and a snaggle of single track trails in the hills north and west of Santiago Suchilquitongo that are a lure to mountain bikers looking to explore new territory. This post recounts two similar but distinct rides.
RIDE ONE: To scratch the itch of adventure, two cyclists set out from Oaxaca to shuttle their bikes 33 kilometers (20.5 miles) to Suchilquitoingo one morning, intent on discovering what that region has to offer. This being an exploratory trip and a first-time visit, the day’s route rested on a roll of the dice as to which direction to ride. First up was a trek up the hill just west of the cuota to Mexico City past the Technologico Nacional de Mexico. What started as a promising ride on an unpaved country lane soon devolved into a jeep road and then a narrow, ill-defined single track which climbed up to a ridge overlooking the valley spread below. Near the top the trail became so faint and steep the riders deemed it best to turn around and retrace their path. Back in the valley, the cyclists had better luck following a freshly-graded road winding westward past two reservoirs, with the road climbing steadily upward for a number of miles. After pedaling for two hours, the pair decided to head back, calling the day’s excursion a success. The stats for the day are: 22 kilometers (13.7 miles) ridden, with an elevation gain and loss of 596 meters (1956 feet). See first map, below.
RIDE TWO: Intrigued by the road which seemed to wind ever higher and deeper into the nearby mountains, cyclists returned a second time to explore the area further. Turns out this old road is a winner! The lower portion is mainly sundrenched, but the upper sections offer good forest shade. The first five miles provide moderate climbs and descents as the track weaves through the woods. The next 1.3 miles are steeper, with grades of 8 to 15 percent. The final seven-tenths of a mile climb is a challenge, with lots of loose sand and a gradient of up to 20% in places. An ebike is a real asset and is definitely in its element here! The ride stats are: distance 21.7 km (13.5 miles) / elevation gain & loss 781 meters (2563 feet) / ride time of 2.5 hours on ebikes. See second map, below.
Scampering up a trail in the hills near Huitzo.A spectacular view of the countryside. The first of two reservoirs on today’s outing. The same reservoir seen from further up the mountain.The long, winding road up into the mountains. Lots of zigging and zagging along the way. Deep in the forest and high on the hill.
On a fine fall day in October 2023 five biking buddies set out from Oaxaca to ride to Santa Cecilia Jalieza and back, making an attempt to explore some dirt roads in the Tlacolula valley never ridden before. The unfamiliar terrain resulted in following a few country lanes that wound up depositing the riders in the middle of some corn fields. Not a problem, though! Everyone was in fine spirits and it was a lovely day to wander about on a bike. Passing through Santa Maria el Tule again on the return leg of the loop ride, the gang stopped to chow down at the El Milenario restaurant, a favorite lunch stop any time cyclists are in that neck of the woods. The final mileage tally for the day was 66.9 kilometers (41.6 miles), with an elevation gain and loss of 459 meters (1507 feet). Though a bit saddlesore and weary at the end, everyone declared the outing to be scenic and fun. What more could one ask?
This post is a companion to the earlier entry of 10 October describing the brutal climb to the top of the ridge just west of Jalapa del Valle. There is a newly-paved road winding up the long, steep mountainside leading to Santiago Tlazoyaltepec. Getting to the top is a real challenge, even for riders with strong legs and powerful lungs. Two adventurous cyclists did the climb of 1087.5 meters (3568 feet) over 28.3 kilometers (17.6 miles) in 3 hours, 20 minutes, having first used a shuttle to get from Oaxaca to Jalapa del Valle. Jalapa sits at an elevation of 1721 meters (5645 feet), while the road hits a high point of 2808 meters (9213 feet). The brake-burning descent, by comparison, took just 28 minutes, after which the riders enjoyed a well-deserved lunch at the rustic but competent Comedor Campestre in the center of Jalapa. (Suggestion: try the wonderful shrimp platter for just 150 pesos.)
The new pavement on the road to Tlazayotepec gives a smooth ride but is still a formidable climb.A memorial marker along the way. Was Noe, perhaps, a cyclist who succumbed on the long haul up the mountain?The turnoff to El Portezuelo, a tiny village near the top of the mountain. A pet parrot enlivens lunch at the rustic comedor in Jalapa del Valle.
The rural village of Santa Cruz Papalutla, situated near the center of the Tlacolula Valley, often sees mountain bikers pass through but rarely stop there. Today was an exception, as the townspeople held a festival celebrating the weaving of hats, baskets and other items from straw and carrizo (a form of bamboo which looks like sugar cane). The main street was cordoned off and covered with tents, beneath which artisans displayed their wares and ladies served fresh-made local foods. The eight cyclists on today’s ride stopped there for a tasty brunch before pedaling on to San Juan Teitipac and then circling back to Oaxaca city. The map below shows the route followed, which entailed pedaling 59.5 kilometers (37.0 miles) with an elevation gain and loss of 303.6 meters (996 feet) on the circuit.
Rendezvous at Santo Doming for the weekly Sunday ride.On the bike path to Santa Maria el Tule.Arrived at Papalutla for the Fiesta de Carrizo.Andrew trades his old bike helmet for a woven one. Local women serving up delicious treats. Continuing the ride.
