The dirt roads and backcountry trails that abound in the Pueblos Mancomunados are a continual lure to mountain bikers living in Oaxaca. On this particular Sunday in February some friends lit out for the high country intent on riding to some place new. Without much discussion we found ourselves in Cuajimoloyas looking for the start of the hiking trail going to Yavesia. A couple of friendly guides at the ecotourism office, though, dissuaded us by saying it would be much better just to stick to the dirt roads linking the two villages. Bowing to their knowledge of the area, we did just that – and were later grateful for the advice.
As you can see on the elevation chart below, Yavesia sits some 3485 feet (1062 meters) lower in altitude than Cuajimoloyas. The road between them has a grade of over 17% in places, making for an exhilarating descent but a brutal climb back up. The singletrack trail could only be even more daunting. We sailed the 12 mile (19 km) distance to Yavesia in about 75 minutes; the leg- and lung-searing return took a good two hours longer.
In all honesty, one has to wonder if this ride is worth the effort. Like my motorcycle trip from Kansas City, Kansas to Fairbanks, Alaska, I can say that I am glad I did it — but once was quite enough, thank you. The route is in heavy forest throughout, with hardly a mountain vista to inspire and nothing of note along the way. While Cuajimoloyas has a certain charm, Yavesia has little to recommend it. If you want a memorable ride, there are better choices — unless your REALLY like grunting uphill for twelve miles.
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